Welcome to the definitive guide to understanding diamond clarity. Many approach this topic with a sense of apprehension, viewing it as a scale of perfection versus flaws. At Rockher, we invite you to see it differently. Think of a diamond's clarity characteristics not as imperfections, but as unique birthmarks or an intricate fingerprint—a testament to its incredible journey from deep within the Earth over billions of years. No two diamonds are exactly alike, and these signatures are what make each stone truly one-of-a-kind.
We believe that, like every love story, every diamond has a unique story to tell. Our passion lies in helping you understand that story so you can choose a diamond with confidence and joy. We are not just jewelers; we are gemologists, artisans, and storytellers dedicated to helping you find the perfect stone that balances breathtaking beauty with intelligent value. As you explore the world of diamonds, we transform your vision into a timeless piece of art that celebrates your custom engagement ring.
This guide will demystify the world of diamond clarity. You will learn how to decode the official GIA grading scale, identify the types of inclusions that matter (and those that don't), and master the art of selecting a diamond that is visually stunning without overpaying for a technical grade you can't see. Our team of expert gemologists is here to guide you every step of the way, ensuring your final choice is one you'll cherish forever.
Before diving into charts and grades, it's essential to understand the fundamental concepts of clarity. This knowledge is the foundation for making an informed and confident decision.
Diamond clarity is one of the globally recognized "4Cs" of diamond quality (the others being Cut, Color, and Carat Weight). It is a measure of the purity and rarity of a diamond, evaluated by the presence, visibility, and nature of its internal and external characteristics. These characteristics are categorized into two types:
Inclusions: These are characteristics that are partially or fully enclosed within the diamond. They are the "birthmarks" that formed naturally during the diamond's crystallization process deep within the Earth's mantle.
Blemishes: These are characteristics confined to the diamond's surface. They typically occur after the diamond's formation, often during the cutting, polishing, setting, or wearing process.
Together, these features make up a diamond's unique clarity profile.
Diamonds are forged in one of the most extreme environments on our planet—more than 100 miles beneath the surface, under immense heat (upwards of 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit) and crushing pressure. This violent and chaotic process of crystallization is rarely perfect.
During their formation, tiny crystals of other minerals, such as garnet, peridot, or even microscopic diamonds, can become trapped within the carbon lattice. These are known as "crystal" inclusions. Sometimes, the growth of the diamond crystal itself can be irregular, creating internal strain patterns called "graining" or complex features known as "twinning wisps". These are not defects or signs of a "bad" diamond; they are a natural and expected part of a diamond's formation story. In fact, diamonds completely free of these characteristics are so exceptionally rare that most jewelers will never encounter one in their entire career.
A diamond's clarity grade affects it in three distinct ways: beauty, value, and durability. Understanding the difference between these three factors is one of the most important lessons for a savvy diamond buyer. A common mistake is to assume they are all the same, but a diamond can have a lower value (e.g., SI1 vs. VVS1) while having identical beauty to the naked eye.
Beauty & Brilliance: A diamond's sparkle is the result of light entering the stone, reflecting off its internal facets, and returning to the viewer's eye. Severe inclusions can act like roadblocks on this journey of light. They can obstruct and deflect light, reducing the diamond's fire and brilliance. In some cases, a high concentration of tiny inclusions (known as a "cloud") can make a diamond appear hazy or milky, significantly impacting its visual appeal. However, the vast majority of inclusions in gem-quality diamonds are far too small to have any noticeable effect on beauty without magnification.
Value: In the diamond market, rarity dictates value. The fewer, smaller, and less noticeable a diamond's clarity characteristics are, the rarer it is, and consequently, the more expensive it will be. A Flawless (FL) diamond commands a significant premium over a Very Slightly Included (VS2) diamond, even though both will almost always appear identical to the naked eye. When you purchase a diamond with a very high clarity grade, you are paying for its rarity, not necessarily for a visible improvement in its beauty.
Durability: While most inclusions are completely harmless, certain types in specific locations can create structural weak points. The most notable example is a "feather," which is a small fracture within the diamond. If a large feather reaches the surface, particularly near the girdle (the diamond's edge) or at a sharp point (like the tip of a pear or marquise shape), it can increase the risk of the fracture extending or the diamond chipping if it sustains a hard impact. This is why every diamond must be evaluated by an expert and accompanied by a reputable grading report, which maps these features.
By learning to evaluate these three factors—beauty, value, and durability—separately, you can make a much smarter purchase. You can choose to invest your budget in the factors you can actually see and appreciate, like eye-clean beauty and a durable structure, rather than paying a premium for a rarity-based grade that offers no visual benefit.
To bring consistency and objectivity to the diamond trade, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created the 4Cs and the definitive diamond clarity scale in the 1950s. Before this, the market relied on vague and easily misinterpreted terms like "loupe clean" or "piqué". The GIA system became the universal language for diamond quality, trusted by jewelers and consumers worldwide.
The process is meticulous. A trained gemologist examines each diamond in a standardized lighting environment using a 10x magnification loupe. They systematically evaluate five key factors to assign a final grade:
Size: How large are the characteristics?
Number: How many characteristics are present?
Position: Where are the characteristics located within the diamond?
Nature: What type of characteristic is it (e.g., a crystal, a feather)?
Relief: How much do the characteristics contrast with the host diamond? (e.g., a dark crystal has more relief than a transparent one).
These five factors combine to place the diamond into one of 11 grades within six main categories.
Here is a grade-by-grade breakdown of the GIA scale, complete with the official definition and Rockher's expert take on what it means for you.
Image Copyright: GIA
Flawless Category
FL (Flawless):
GIA Definition: No inclusions and no blemishes visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
Real World Implication: The absolute pinnacle of purity. Always eye-clean.
Rockher's Expert Take: This is the collector's choice. FL diamonds represent less than 0.04% of the world's gem-grade diamonds and carry a price tag to match their extreme rarity. This grade is for those who desire the satisfaction of owning something truly perfect, though the visual difference from an Internally Flawless or VVS diamond is non-existent to the naked eye.
IF (Internally Flawless):
GIA Definition: No inclusions and only insignificant blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
Real World Implication: Internally perfect. Any blemishes are minor surface characteristics that do not enter the diamond. Always eye-clean.
Rockher's Expert Take: Almost as rare as Flawless, IF diamonds are for the purist who values internal perfection. The minor surface blemishes can often be polished away if desired, but they are completely invisible without a microscope. Like FL, this grade commands a premium for its rarity.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS) Category
VVS1 & VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included):
GIA Definition: Inclusions are so slight that they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification. VVS1 inclusions are typically only visible from the pavilion (bottom) side, while VVS2 inclusions may be visible from the crown (top).
Real World Implication: These diamonds are considered "microscopically" flawed. They are always eye-clean.
Rockher's Expert Take: VVS diamonds are a fantastic choice for those who want a very high-quality stone without the top-tier price of the Flawless category. They offer peace of mind that the diamond is exceptionally clean, even under magnification, making them a popular choice for discerning buyers.
Very Slightly Included (VS) Category
VS1 & VS2 (Very Slightly Included):
GIA Definition: Inclusions are minor and range from difficult to somewhat easy for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
Real World Implication: Generally eye-clean. Inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, making this category the sweet spot for value and beauty.
Rockher's Expert Take: This is the "no-compromise value" category and our most recommended range. VS diamonds, particularly VS1, offer an appearance that is indistinguishable from higher grades to the naked eye but at a significantly more accessible price point. A VS2 grade is also an excellent choice, providing an eye-clean look in the vast majority of cases, especially in diamonds under 2 carats.
Slightly Included (SI) Category
SI1 & SI2 (Slightly Included):
GIA Definition: Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader under 10x magnification.
Real World Implication: This is the first category where inclusions may be visible to the naked eye. However, many SI1 diamonds and even some SI2 diamonds are still "eye-clean," depending on the type and location of their inclusions.
Rockher's Expert Take: This is the "smart buyer's secret" category. A carefully selected, eye-clean SI1 diamond represents the absolute best value in the market. It allows you to maximize your budget, potentially affording a larger carat size or a higher color grade, without sacrificing the visual beauty of the stone. Finding a beautiful, eye-clean SI1 diamond is one of the best ways to maximize your budget. You can(https://www.rockher.com/collections/diamonds?filter.p.m.custom.clarity=SI1) to see the incredible value for yourself. Selection is key in this category, and our gemologists specialize in finding these exceptional stones.
Included (I) Category
I1, I2, & I3 (Included):
GIA Definition: Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
Real World Implication: Inclusions in this category are almost always visible to the naked eye. In the I2 and I3 grades, they can be large enough to compromise the diamond's structural integrity and significantly diminish its sparkle.
Rockher's Expert Take: We generally do not recommend diamonds in the Included category for fine jewelry, especially for a central stone in an engagement ring. The visible inclusions detract from the diamond's beauty and can pose a durability risk.
To help you visualize the differences, here is a summary table.
Image Copyright: GIA
To truly understand a diamond's clarity, it helps to learn the language of gemology. When you browse our collection of over 500,000 diamonds, you can view the GIA report for each stone. This report includes a "plotting diagram," which is a map of the diamond's unique clarity characteristics. Learning to read this map empowers you to understand exactly what you are buying. On these diagrams, red symbols typically mark internal inclusions, while green symbols mark external features like naturals.
Here is a visual glossary of the most common inclusions and blemishes, explaining what they are and, most importantly, their typical impact on the diamond.
Crystal:
What it is: A tiny mineral crystal (sometimes even a microscopic diamond) that was trapped inside the host diamond as it formed.
What it looks like: Can appear as a tiny dot or have a distinct shape. They can be colorless, black (often mistaken for carbon), reddish (garnet), or greenish (peridot).
Rockher's Impact Assessment: A small, colorless crystal is usually benign and invisible to the naked eye. A large or dark-colored crystal, especially under the table facet, can be more noticeable and may impact the grade more significantly.
Pinpoint:
What it is: A very small crystal that looks like a tiny speck, even at 10x magnification.
What it looks like: A minuscule white or black dot.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Pinpoints are the most harmless of all inclusions. A single pinpoint or a few scattered ones will have no effect on a diamond's beauty or durability.
Cloud:
What it is: A dense grouping of many microscopic pinpoints.
What it looks like: The individual pinpoints are too small to be distinguished, so the cluster appears as a hazy or translucent area within the diamond.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: A small, faint cloud is typically of no concern. However, a large and dense cloud can affect the diamond's transparency, making it look milky or dull. This is a characteristic to watch for in lower-clarity grades.
Feather:
What it is: A general trade term for a small fracture or break within the diamond.
What it looks like: The name is descriptive; they often have a fine, white, feathery appearance.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: This is a critical inclusion to evaluate. Small feathers contained entirely within the diamond are usually harmless and pose no durability risk. However, a feather that reaches the surface or the girdle, especially on a stone with sharp corners, can be a durability concern and should be carefully assessed by a gemologist.
Needle:
What it is: A long, thin crystal inclusion that looks like a tiny rod at 10x magnification.
What it looks like: A fine, transparent or white line.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: A single needle is typically invisible to the naked eye and has no impact on durability. A cluster of needles can sometimes create a hazy effect, similar to a cloud.
Knot:
What it is: An included crystal that reaches the polished surface of the diamond.
What it looks like: You can see the boundary of the crystal on the surface of a facet.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Knots can pose a minor durability risk, as they interrupt the diamond's crystal structure at the surface. They can also sometimes have a raised appearance on the facet, affecting the polish.
Cavity:
What it is: An angular opening on the diamond's surface, often created when a surface-reaching crystal is dislodged during the polishing process.
What it looks like: A small indentation or hole.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Large cavities can trap dirt and oil, making them more visible. Depending on their size and depth, they can also be a minor durability concern. It's generally best to avoid diamonds with large cavities.
Twinning Wisp:
What it is: A flat, ribbon-like inclusion that is a result of irregular crystal growth during the diamond's formation.
What it looks like: A distorted plane within the diamond, often composed of a series of tiny pinpoints, crystals, or feathers.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Twinning wisps can vary greatly in their visibility. Faint, transparent wisps are often difficult to see, while larger, more complex ones can be noticeable. They typically do not pose a durability risk.
Chip:
What it is: A shallow opening on the surface, typically caused by accidental impact.
What it looks like: A small, broken piece, often found along the girdle or facet junctions.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Chips can be a durability concern as they can be points of weakness. They also detract from the diamond's finished appearance.
Natural:
What it is: A small portion of the original rough diamond's surface that is left unpolished on the finished stone.
What it looks like: A slightly rough or textured area, usually found on the girdle.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: An indented natural that dips below the surface is technically an inclusion, while a natural confined to the surface is a blemish. They are a sign that the cutter preserved as much of the original diamond's weight as possible. As long as they are small and confined to the girdle, they have no impact on beauty or durability and can be a positive indicator of good yield.
Scratch:
What it is: A fine, dull white line on the diamond's surface.
What it looks like: Exactly as it sounds.
Rockher's Impact Assessment: Minor scratches are very common and are not visible without magnification. They can usually be removed by a professional polishing.
The most important takeaway is that the location of an inclusion is often more critical than its type or the diamond's overall clarity grade. An SI1 diamond with a small, transparent crystal hidden near the girdle where a prong will cover it is a far better choice than a VS2 diamond with a dark crystal located directly under the center of the table facet. The GIA grade is an overall assessment, but the visual impact comes down to the placement of the primary, "grade-setting" inclusion. This is where expert guidance becomes invaluable.
Now that you understand the grades and the characteristics, it's time to apply that knowledge strategically. The goal is not just to buy a diamond, but to choose the right diamond for your specific needs, preferences, and budget.
The single most important concept for getting the best value is "eye-clean." An eye-clean diamond has no inclusions or blemishes that are visible to the average naked eye when the stone is viewed face-up from a normal distance (about 6 to 12 inches).
This is the practical standard for beauty. If an inclusion is invisible without a 10x loupe, it does not impact the diamond's visual appeal in the real world. While diamonds graded VS2 and higher are almost always eye-clean, the true opportunity for value lies in the SI1 and sometimes even the SI2 categories. Finding a certified eye-clean diamond in these grades is the key to a smart purchase.
For the vast majority of buyers, the clarity "sweet spot" is the VS1 to SI2 range. These grades offer the perfect intersection of beauty and price, delivering a visually flawless appearance at a fraction of the cost of the higher grades.
Consider this powerful argument: Why pay a significant premium for a VVS1 diamond when a masterfully selected, eye-clean SI1 offers the exact same visual performance to the naked eye? The substantial savings can then be reallocated to factors you can see and appreciate, such as a higher carat weight, a better color grade, or a more intricate, custom-designed setting. This is not about compromise; it's about intelligent allocation of your budget to achieve the most beautiful ring possible.
Not all diamond shapes display inclusions equally. The faceting pattern of a diamond plays a huge role in its ability to hide—or reveal—clarity characteristics. This is a critical consideration when choosing your clarity grade.
Brilliant-Cuts (Round, Oval, Cushion, Princess, Radiant, Pear, Marquise): These shapes are engineered for maximum sparkle. Their numerous, small, kite-shaped facets create a dazzling "hall-of-mirrors" effect. Light is chopped up and reflected countless times, which is incredibly effective at concealing inclusions. For these brilliant shapes, you can confidently consider grades in the VS2 and eye-clean SI1 range, knowing the sparkle will help mask any minor characteristics. This is especially true for the ever-popular oval engagement rings.
Step-Cuts (Emerald, Asscher): These shapes are prized for their elegant, Art Deco aesthetic and hall-of-mirrors clarity. Their long, linear, "step-like" facets and large, open table do not create the same kind of sparkle as brilliant cuts. Instead, they act like a crystal-clear "window" into the heart of the stone. There is simply nowhere for inclusions to hide. Any noticeable characteristic will be much more apparent in a step-cut. For this reason, when selecting emerald cut engagement rings or asscher cut engagement rings, we strongly recommend choosing a clarity grade of VS2 or higher to ensure a visually pristine appearance.
To simplify this, here is a quick reference table:
Choosing a diamond is an exercise in balancing priorities. Here are two common scenarios to illustrate how you can make strategic trade-offs to get the ring of your dreams.
Scenario 1: Maximize Carat Size
Goal: You have your heart set on a stunning 2-carat diamond ring, but you have a firm budget.
Strategy: This is where clarity provides the most flexibility. Instead of a VVS clarity, D-color stone, focus on finding an eye-clean SI1 clarity grade. Pair this with a G or H color grade, which will still appear beautifully white, especially when set in yellow or rose gold. The savings realized by choosing smart clarity and color grades can easily be the difference that makes your dream size a reality, without any sacrifice in visible beauty.
Scenario 2: Maximize Sparkle and Brilliance
Goal: You want the most brilliant, fiery diamond possible, one that lights up the room.
Strategy: Prioritize Cut above all else. An "Excellent" (GIA) or "Ideal" (AGS) cut is non-negotiable. The superior craftsmanship will ensure the diamond performs at its peak potential. With the cut secured, you can then confidently select a VS2 clarity grade and an H color. The exceptional cut will make the diamond appear brighter and more dynamic, effectively masking minor clarity and color characteristics and making the stone look more expensive than its certificate might suggest. This is a perfect strategy for classic engagement rings where the diamond is the undisputed star of the show.
A diamond grading report, often called a certificate, is the single most important document accompanying your diamond. It is an objective, third-party assessment of the diamond's quality, conducted by a reputable gemological laboratory. It is your blueprint, verifying the 4Cs, dimensions, and unique clarity characteristics of your specific stone. A diamond without a report from a top-tier lab is a significant risk. At Rockher, we believe in complete transparency, which is why our diamonds are accompanied by reports from the industry's most respected institutions.
While many labs exist, the industry places its trust in three primary organizations. It's important to understand their respective strengths.
GIA (Gemological Institute of America): The GIA is the undisputed global gold standard for grading natural diamonds. As the creator of the 4Cs, its grading standards are the strictest, most consistent, and most respected worldwide. A GIA report is considered the ultimate assurance of a natural diamond's quality and is the benchmark against which all other labs are measured.
AGS (American Gem Society): The AGS is renowned as the specialist in Cut quality. It is famous for its scientific, light-performance-based cut grading system, which is arguably more advanced and detailed than GIA's. Using a 0-10 scale, AGS provides an in-depth analysis of a diamond's brilliance, fire, and scintillation. For buyers who prioritize a "super-ideal" cut above all else, an AGS report is the top choice.
IGI (International Gemological Institute): The IGI has established itself as the world's leading authority for grading lab-grown diamonds. The explosion of the lab-grown market created a need for a lab that could provide reliable, efficient, and cost-effective grading on a massive scale. IGI was an early leader in this space, developing the expertise and infrastructure to become the most trusted name for lab diamond certification. An IGI report for a lab diamond provides crucial information not always found on other reports, such as the growth method (HPHT or CVD). When you see an IGI report for a lab diamond, you should view it as the industry standard for that specific product category.
This table summarizes the roles of the top labs to help you understand the certificates you will encounter.
The journey to understanding diamond clarity is one of empowerment. The perfect choice is rarely the most expensive, "flawless" grade. Instead, it is about finding that beautiful, eye-clean diamond that delivers maximum brilliance and visual delight for your budget. It's about investing in what you can see, not just what's written on a certificate.
At Rockher, we don't just sell diamonds; we provide the expertise and transparency to help you choose wisely. Our commitment is to guide you through the 4Cs, helping you balance every factor to find a stone that truly speaks to you. With a curated selection of over 500,000 ethically sourced natural and lab-grown diamonds, and a team of passionate gemologists at your service, we are here to help you craft a ring that is as unique, brilliant, and enduring as your love.
Ready to Find Your Diamond? Explore our vast collection of GIA-certified natural diamonds and IGI-certified lab-grown diamonds. Use the advanced filters to find the perfect combination of shape, size, color, and clarity.
Ready to Design Your Ring? Let your story unfold. Build an engagement ring from the ground up, starting with your perfect diamond, or begin by selecting one of our exquisite settings.
Have a Question? Our expert gemologists are your personal consultants. Contact us today and let us provide the personalized guidance you need to make the perfect choice with absolute confidence.
