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The emerald cut's square sibling, deeper, older, and more theatrical. Look straight into an asscher and the steps recede toward the culet like a hall of mirrors folded into a windmill. It is the most architectural face in diamonds, and the most demanding one to buy well.
The asscher is a square step cut with deeply cropped corners, patented by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902 and inseparable from the Art Deco decades it went on to define. Its long, concentric facets descend a deep pavilion toward a small culet, producing the shape's signature: the windmill, four dark blades that seem to spiral into the stone's center, and an almost hypnotic sense of depth the trade calls the endless hallway.
Like every step cut, the asscher is a window. Its broad, open facets display inclusions and body color that a brilliant would scatter into invisibility, so the shape demands high clarity and disciplined color as the price of admission. It differs from its rectangular sibling in one important way: the asscher runs deep where the emerald cut runs shallow, concentrating weight under the table rather than spreading it across the finger.
That depth is the whole personality. The asscher gives up spread to buy dimension, and face up it rewards the trade with a stillness and symmetry no other shape approaches. It is the diamond for someone who wants to look into a stone, not just at one.
| Facets | Typically 58 to 74, step cut in concentric squares |
| Cut grading | No formal lab cut grade, evaluate by eye |
| Face-up size | Smaller than a round of equal weight, deep profile |
| Length to width | 1.00 to 1.05, essentially square |
| Relative price | Below round per carat, above emerald at times |
| Watch for | Clarity, color, and windmill symmetry |
The asscher is the deepest of the classic shapes, carrying much of its weight below the girdle. It faces up smaller than a round of the same carat, and it makes no apology: the depth is what builds the endless hallway. Buyers who want spread should look to the emerald cut; buyers who want dimension are already home.
| Carat Weight | Typical Measurements | How It Wears |
|---|---|---|
| 0.75 ct | 5.1 x 5.1 mm | A jewel box square, precise and vintage |
| 1.00 ct | 5.6 x 5.6 mm | The classic asscher, unmistakable up close |
| 1.50 ct | 6.4 x 6.4 mm | Deep, deliberate, quietly commanding |
| 2.00 ct | 7.0 x 7.0 mm | Serious depth with Deco presence |
| 3.00 ct | 8.1 x 8.1 mm | An heirloom square with real gravity |
Measurements are typical for well proportioned stones. Individual diamonds vary with their cutting.
A step cut this deep shows everything and forgives nothing, so the certificate is the beginning of the work, not the end of it. Here is where your attention belongs.
The asscher's open concentric facets put inclusions on display, and its depth magnifies anything near the culet. We hold VS1 as the working floor, VS2 only on stones our gemologists have verified eye clean face up on video. SI grades belong on brilliants, not here.
Depth pools body color, and the asscher is the deepest shape on the board. Hold G or better in platinum and white gold, H in yellow gold, and whatever a round would need in your setting, give the asscher one grade more.
On video, look straight down. The four windmill blades should meet the center evenly, the concentric squares should march in rhythm, and the cropped corners should match. Uneven blades or a smeared center are cutting flaws no certificate line reports.
Every stone we recommend is scored by ROSI™, our gemological intelligence, built by our gemologists, and verified by a human eye before it reaches you. Request a ROSI™ Score Report on any diamond you are considering, ours or anyone else’s.
Found an asscher you are considering, here or anywhere else? Send the GIA or IGI certificate number and our gemological team returns its ROSI™ Score and a read of where it sits in the current market. Complimentary, within minutes.
Score a DiamondWhere stones of the same exact specifications are trading on the open market right now. You get a straight answer, even when the diamond is not ours.
The asscher arrives with its own geometry and its own era. The strongest settings honor both. These three directions cover most of what our clients choose, each made to order around your exact stone.
Four corner prongs and a clean band, letting the windmill do all the talking. The asscher needs nothing added, and this mount proves it.
A geometric frame of pavé, often with milgrain or baguette accents, returning the asscher to the decade that made it famous. The definitive vintage composition.
Flanked by straight or tapered baguettes that extend the step cut language across the finger. Formal, symmetrical, and unmistakably deliberate.
The asscher trades spread for depth and hides nothing along the way. It is the connoisseur's square, priced accordingly in grades, not dollars.
We will tell you plainly what the asscher costs, and it is not mostly money: the shape itself prices below the round per carat, but it demands the clarity and color budget the brilliants let you skip, and it faces up smaller than everything else at its weight. Those are real trades, and buyers who make them knowingly love this shape for life. Buyers chasing maximum finger coverage should hear the honest alternative: a radiant gives the square outline with brilliant forgiveness, and an emerald cut gives the step cut soul with more spread. If the endless hallway is what moves you, nothing substitutes, and we will hold the stone to the standard the shape deserves.
We are a Los Angeles fine jewelry atelier with family roots in the diamond trade going back to 1967. That history buys you four things you will not find together anywhere else.
Send us the certificate of a stone we do not sell and we will still score it. No other jeweler will grade a competitor’s diamond for you and tell you if it is the better buy.
Every ROSI™ report shows where stones of identical specifications are trading right now, drawn from live market data. You see the range before you see our price.
Every score is verified by our gemological team before it reaches you, and John Anderson, our Lead Gemologist, is one phone call away for the questions a report cannot answer.
Every setting leaves our Los Angeles atelier built around your exact diamond, at one confident price, with 40 day returns and 60 day complimentary resizing behind it.
Our gemologists buy inside a written window, and decline outside it. These are those numbers, published in full, so you can hold any asscher to the same standard we do, including one you are considering somewhere else.
Graded on certificates as a square emerald cut. Same step faceting as the emerald, same intolerance for weak symmetry, in a square outline with a deeper pavilion.
Each scale shows the measurement range. Gold marks the RockHer Ideal window.
| Length to width ratio | 1 to 1.05 |
|---|---|
| Depth | 65% to 72% |
| Table | 55% to 68% |
| Girdle | Thin to thick |
| Polish | Very Good or better |
| Symmetry | Very Good or better |
| Culet | None |
Every diamond in our search carries these measurements on its report. In the filter panel, under RockHer’s Best, switch on Ideal Cut and the results narrow to the window above. Super Ideal Cut narrows them further still, to a tighter standard our gemologists hold diamond by diamond rather than publish as a range.
Nothing is hidden behind the switch. It applies the same numbers printed on this page.
Open the Asscher diamond searchThe panel as it appears in the diamond search, with Ideal Cut switched on.
Proportion is the first filter, not the last. A asscher can sit inside every range above and still be one we will not sell. These findings end a purchase in our office whatever the certificate says, and every diamond scored by ROSI™ is read against them by a gemologist before it is offered.
A certificate tells you what was measured. It does not tell you what was rejected.
Two asscher diamonds can carry the same carat, color, clarity, and grading laboratory, and one of them will never reach a client of ours. That gap is the work: reading the plot, the finish, and the face-up appearance against a written standard rather than against a price.
John Anderson, our Lead Gemologist, reviews asschers with clients every day. Send him the certificate of any stone you are considering and he will tell you what the paper says and what it leaves out. The consultation is complimentary and there is no obligation.
1-800-779-1726