Princess Cut Diamond Guide

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Diamond Shape Guide
The Princess Cut, Face Up

The Princess Cut Diamond

The round brilliant's fire in a square frame, at the friendliest price per carat of any major shape. The princess wastes almost none of its rough crystal and passes the savings to you, asking only one thing in return: that its four sharp corners live under prongs and pass a video check.

The Cut

What Defines the Princess Cut

The princess is a square brilliant: a modern cut, developed in the second half of the twentieth century, that maps the round brilliant's light performance onto a square outline with four sharp, uncropped corners. Its pavilion is faceted in chevrons, V-shaped tiers that fold light into a distinctive cross-and-X pattern face up, giving the princess a glitter all its own, denser and icier than a round's.

Its quiet superpower is economics. The princess retains more of the rough diamond crystal than any other major cut, roughly eighty percent against the round's sixty, and that efficiency flows straight into price: carat for carat, the princess is consistently the most affordable of the major shapes. The same budget buys visibly more diamond, or the same diamond at higher grades.

Its one genuine demand is at the corners. Four true ninety degree points are where a diamond is most vulnerable to chipping and where inclusions do their only real damage, so the corners drive both the video check and the setting choice. Solve the corners, and the princess is the sharpest value in brilliant-cut diamonds.

At a Glance

Facets Typically 57 to 76, brilliant style with chevrons
Cut grading No formal lab cut grade, evaluate by eye
Face-up size Smaller than a round of equal weight, deeper profile
Length to width 1.00 to 1.05, crisply square
Relative price The lowest per carat of the major shapes
Watch for Corner inclusions, dark corners, corner protection
Presence on the Hand

Face-Up Size and Spread

The princess runs deep to feed its chevrons, so it faces up a touch smaller than a round of equal weight. Its price advantage more than covers the difference: the budget that buys a round often buys a princess a healthy step up in carat, which settles the size question in the square's favor.

Carat Weight Typical Measurements How It Wears
0.75 ct 5.0 x 5.0 mm A crisp, precise square on slender hands
1.00 ct 5.5 x 5.5 mm The classic princess, dense with sparkle
1.50 ct 6.4 x 6.4 mm Confident geometry, unmistakably modern
2.00 ct 7.0 x 7.0 mm Serious presence with icy fire
3.00 ct 8.0 x 8.0 mm A commanding square across the finger

Measurements are typical for well proportioned stones. Individual diamonds vary with their cutting.

Reading the Certificate

What to Prioritize on a Princess Certificate

The princess forgives clarity and color almost as generously as the round, then concentrates all its risk in four small places. Here is where your attention belongs.

Study

The Corners on the Plot

Read the certificate's clarity plot and find the inclusions nearest the four corners. A crystal or feather at a corner sits exactly where prong pressure and daily knocks land, and it is the one place an SI grade can genuinely matter. Center inclusions vanish in the chevron glitter; corner inclusions are the real question.

Demand

Video for Dark Corners

A well cut princess sparkles edge to edge. A poorly cut one goes dark in the four corners or dull across the center, flaws no certificate line reports. On video, turn the stone and confirm the fire reaches all four points and the cross pattern stays lively through the middle.

Save

Where the Princess Lets You

The chevron faceting shreds inclusions and hides body color nearly as well as a round, so VS2 and eye clean SI1 stones are genuine smart buys, and H or I color reads white in most settings. Spend the savings on carat or cut quality, the two things you will actually see.

Every stone we recommend is scored by ROSI™, our gemological intelligence, built by our gemologists, and verified by a human eye before it reaches you. Request a ROSI™ Score Report on any diamond you are considering, ours or anyone else’s.

91.4
ROSI™ Score
Know exactly what a princess cut is worth before you buy it.

Found a princess cut you are considering, here or anywhere else? Send the GIA or IGI certificate number and our gemological team returns its ROSI™ Score and a read of where it sits in the current market. Complimentary, within minutes.

Score a Diamond
Fair Market ReadSample · Live market data
$4,650This diamond sits here$5,400

Where stones of the same exact specifications are trading on the open market right now. You get a straight answer, even when the diamond is not ours.

Settings

Settings That Flatter a Princess Cut

Every princess setting has one non-negotiable job: cover the four corners. Within that rule, the shape's clean geometry gives you three strong directions, each made to order around your exact stone.

1

The Four-Prong Corner Solitaire

One V-prong or corner claw on each point, nothing else. The classic princess mount: maximum stone, full protection exactly where the shape needs it.

2

The Channel-Set Band

The square outline continued in a channel of princess accents flush along the band. Seamless, armor-strong at the edges, and the pairing that made the princess a wedding set favorite.

3

The Halo

A frame of pavé that rounds the square's presence and shields its corners in one move. Adds visible size and softens the geometry for wearers torn between princess and cushion.

An Honest Word
The princess is the best price in brilliant diamonds because the cutter wastes nothing. Your only job is to protect four corners the cutter left sharp.

We will give you the arithmetic straight: the princess converts rough to polished more efficiently than any major shape, and that is the honest reason it costs less per carat than a round, not any defect in its beauty. The risks are small, specific, and permanent: inclusions at the corners matter more than the clarity grade suggests, dark corners are a cutting flaw only video reveals, and an exposed point will eventually find a doorframe. Buy the stone on video, keep inclusions away from the points, and never accept a setting that leaves a corner bare. Do those three things and the princess delivers more sparkle per dollar than anything else we sell; skip them and the savings were never real. Wearers who love the square but want softer insurance should look at the cushion, and we will tell you honestly which suits the hand in front of us.

Only at RockHer

What We Offer That No Other Website Will

We are a Los Angeles fine jewelry atelier with family roots in the diamond trade going back to 1967. That history buys you four things you will not find together anywhere else.

A score on anyone’s diamond

Send us the certificate of a stone we do not sell and we will still score it. No other jeweler will grade a competitor’s diamond for you and tell you if it is the better buy.

A fair market read, not a pitch

Every ROSI™ report shows where stones of identical specifications are trading right now, drawn from live market data. You see the range before you see our price.

A gemologist, not a chatbot

Every score is verified by our gemological team before it reaches you, and John Anderson, our Lead Gemologist, is one phone call away for the questions a report cannot answer.

A ring made to order for your stone

Every setting leaves our Los Angeles atelier built around your exact diamond, at one confident price, with 40 day returns and 60 day complimentary resizing behind it.

Questions

Princess Diamond Questions, Answered

Are princess cut diamonds less expensive than rounds?
Yes, consistently the most affordable of the major shapes per carat. The princess retains roughly eighty percent of its rough crystal against about sixty for the round, and that cutting efficiency flows directly into price. The same budget buys a noticeably larger princess, or the same size at higher grades.
Do princess cut diamonds sparkle as much as rounds?
Nearly, and differently. The round remains the benchmark for calibrated fire, but the princess's chevron pavilion produces a dense, icy glitter with its own cross-and-X character that many wearers prefer. In daily wear the difference in brightness is small; the difference in personality, a square geometry against a round one, is what should drive the choice.
Do princess cut diamonds chip easily?
The four sharp corners are the shape's one vulnerability: a true ninety degree point concentrates impact the way no rounded outline does. The solution is absolute and simple, corner-covering prongs on all four points, which we build as standard on every princess setting. Properly set, a princess wears as durably as any brilliant.
What clarity grade do I need for a princess cut diamond?
Lower than you might think, with one caveat. The chevron faceting hides inclusions nearly as well as a round's, so VS2 and verified eye clean SI1 stones are smart buys. The caveat is location: check the certificate's plot and avoid inclusions at or near the corners, where prong pressure and impact concentrate. A clean-cornered SI1 beats a corner-flawed VS2.
What is the best length to width ratio for a princess cut?
1.00 to 1.05 for a crisp square, which is how the overwhelming majority are cut and worn. Above 1.05 the outline begins to read as an unintended rectangle rather than a deliberate one. If an elongated square appeals, the radiant cut delivers that outline by design, with cropped corners as a bonus.
Is a princess cut diamond a good choice for an engagement ring?
One of the smartest values in diamonds for a wearer who loves clean, modern geometry. It delivers brilliant fire at the lowest price per carat of the major shapes, asks only for corner protection and a video check, and pairs beautifully with channel-set bands. Meet its two terms and the princess outperforms its price every day it is worn.
Talk to a Jeweler

Considering a princess? Let a gemologist look first.

John Anderson, our Lead Gemologist, reviews princess cuts with clients every day. Send him the certificate of any stone you are considering and he will tell you what the paper says and what it leaves out. The consultation is complimentary and there is no obligation.

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